Match of the week

Tuna Tataki and Grenache Blanc
Perfectly prepared Japanese food is not what you expect to find in the gastronomic desert of the Languedoc but this superb dish of rare tuna was a brilliant match for the richly textured white wine I drank at Côté Mas the other day.
The newly opened restaurant just outside Montagnac belongs to Jean-Claude Mas and is a major step forward for Languedoc wine tourism. He has installed a Japanese chef - Taïchi Megurikami - his marketing manager Brigitte told me, not to cook Japanese food but to bring Japanese influences and precision to the local cuisine.
The dish, which was part of a tasting plate of starters, was outstanding: a beautifully cut piece of tuna, served almost sashimi-rare, lightly rolled in finely chopped herbs and served with a julienned salad of cucumber and whipped cream with wasabi.
It was paired with the 2012 Mas des Tannes Reserve Blanc an unctuous, oily Grenache Blanc which had exactly the right texture and flavour for the soft, almost buttery fish.
At Côté Mas you can buy the wine from the shop and pay just 5€ corkage (or order it by the glass for 3€) but even in the UK it’s not a bad deal. Noel Young has it for £10.95 a bottle or £9.83 if you buy a case and Soho Wine Supply for £10.99.
Probably a good style of wine to pair with other Japanese dishes, I suspect.
I ate at Côté Mas as a guest of Domaine Paul Mas.

A Viognier-dominated Languedoc white and a Chinese/Thai takeaway
The first thing we do when we get back from France is to eat some kind of spicy food. It’s not impossible to eat ethnic down in the Languedoc (there are a couple of Vietnamese restaurants locally) but it’s not good.
This time we were staying overnight with friends who also have a house down there so they ordered in a takeway and put a full-bodied Languedoc white on the table - no 7 from Domaine la Croix Belle - the ‘7’ representing the seven grapes in the blend - Viognier, Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Sauvignon, Carignan Blanc, Muscat à petit grains and Chasan.
It’s one of my favourite local Languedoc whites but I wouldn’t have thought that spicy food was its natural register. But it was surprisingly good, especially with a Thai red curry and a spicy dish of noodles. The aromatic character of the wine isn’t immediately obvious when you taste it on its own but really came to the fore in the pairing.
It would be worth trying similar Languedoc whites that include Viognier with this style of food, provided it’s not too searingly hot.
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